Kolli Hills – Pristine and Pure

KOLLI HILLS

Kolli Hills is a beautiful mountain range located in Namakkal district of Tamil Nadu in South India. Its altitude ranges from 1000 to 1300 meters above mean sea level and enjoys a pleasant, healthful climate round the year. The hills are spread over an area of 440 sq. kilometers. When viewed from National Highway 44 on the Rasipuram-Namakkal stretch, it appears as a flat-topped mountain range.

Remote, untouched by commercialization and retaining its historical charm Kolli Malai as it is called locally seems frozen in time.

History

  • Kolli Malai is said to be the exquisite Madhuvanam (the forest of honey) zealously maintained by vaanara king Sugreeva that is mentioned in the Sundara kandam of the Ramayana. The Madhuvanam was a protected grove where there was plenty of honey. Even today, this is a land of tropical fruits, honey and medicinal herbs just as it would have been in the Ramayana period.
  • It was a land favoured by siddars, the ancient medicine men of Tamil Nadu.

Kolli hills in the songs of the bards

In a distant past dating more than 2000 years ago, there lived wandering bards who travelled across ancient Tamil Nadu and were much respected by kings. They had the freedom to visit any kingdom and write songs on all they saw and observed. Tamil Sangam literature hence comes across as a treatise of gross truth told in a style that is at once blunt and poetical. The Kolli hills have been eulogized and glorified by many of these poets. It has a rich history as the kingdom of Mazhavar and Chera kings, It was a coveted kingdom and wars were fought and kings died trying to defend the kingdom.

Kolli hills are mentioned in these books of sangam literature:

  1. Purananooru
  2. Agananooru
  3. Natrinai
  4. Kurunthogai
  5. Pathitrupathu

Beautiful And Magical                  

Named after Kolli Paavai, the maiden goddess who guards these hills, Kolli hills still casts its spell on visitors. Much of the area is relatively unexplored and inaccessible, Myths abound and stories are told that are bizarre and spooky. Yes, it is true that a Kolli hills has a reputation. It is the favored destination of astrologers and practitioners of witchcraft and tantric practices. Scattered over the hills are small shrines where the priests will promise to remove all obstacles in your life and solve all your problems for a fee!

But there is much in the Kolli hills that is sacred and beautiful. The people who live here are tribals and are called as Malayalees – people of the mountains. They are a hard-working self- sufficient community with a unique culture that is their own. Aadi Padhinettu in July is the most important festival in the Kolli hills when people from the 16 naadus and from other places come together for week long celebrations.

A Holiday in Kolli Hills

Kolli hills is the place to go for a quiet peaceful holiday sans crowds of tourists.

On visiting the hills you realize that you have just stepped into an amazing world and first visits are always memorable. This is hill country like no other. Thick forests are interspersed with pastoral landscapes, and cosy mountain villages. The altitude and the rivers Aiyaru and Varattaru flowing across the hills, massive jackfruit trees everywhere you go, terraced fields, yes, Kolli hills is beautiful.

How to reach

Kolli hills is accessible from Salem (64 kms) and from Namakkal(24 kms) both major cities on National Highway 44(NH44). Buses ply from Salem, Namakkal and Rasipuram to important villages in the Kolli hills. It is a better idea to rent a car because many of the places to visit in the hills are not on the regular bus routes.

Hill road - Kolli malai

The drive to the hills is lovely, the roads are good. If you are travelling from Salem it is a  11/2 hour drive through a very scenic route.

Route from Salem

Take the NH 44 from Salem. Near Rasipuram, turn left onto the Rasipuram bye-pass which will take you to State Highway SH 95. Turn right on to SH 95 and drive through beautiful farming villages along the Kolli range. Turn left once more at Kaalappa-naickenpatti to go to the kolli foothills village of Karavalli. The 28 kms Ghat Road begins at Karavalli. and the most amazing drive up the mountains with  stunning views and 70 sharp hair-pin bends, a real challenge for drivers and biking enthusiasts. Enjoy the paintings of the Sendhamangalam Highways department along the way depicting stories of famous kings of ancient Tamil Nadu.

A hair pin bend in Kolli hills
A hair-pin bend in the Kolli Hills

Kolli Hills

Solakadu is your first stop and also one of the highest points in the hills. Stop for a steaming cup of the locally grown Arapalli coffee. The tribal shandy is right by the roadside and is a must visit place for buying exotic fruits and spices and other mountain produce. Just opposite the shandy, within the premises of the Highways Bungalow is a viewpoint with breathtaking views.

At Solakadu you can choose the places you want to visit from the prominently placed signpost. There are a lot of places to visit in the Kolli hills.

A word of caution – Once you exit Solakadu, there are very few signposts along the way so ask the locals for directions when in doubt to avoid going around in circles! Many roads seem the same on the hills and can get quite confusing.

Where to stay

There are very few resorts in the Kolli hills. The oldest is the Nallathambi resort. You can book cottages of the Kolli malai Panchayat in advance. These are located in Semmedu. Another place to stay is the youth hostel near the Arapaleeswarar temple.Alternately, you can stay in Salem or Namakkal and visit the hills.

Bring packed meals and snacks when you come because there are very few good hotels or eateries. If you plan to stay longer than a day the best thing would be to ask the locals to prepare food for you.

Gently Down The Lake In Yercaud

Dappled sunlight by the lake
Dappled sunlight by the lake, Yercaud

6th April 2017

Which Tamil Nadu hill-station gets its name from the lake at the centre of town? Yercaud, of course! This little hill town was called Eri-Kadu because of the forests around the lake. Eri-lake and kadu-forest. We locals still say Yerkadu when we speak of this laid- back hill town near Salem.

Yercaud Lake (2)

  • The lake is the first sight that greets you once you have negotiated 20 hair-pin bends on the lovely drive on the oh-so-beautiful hill roads and enter the hill town.
  • Once you have arrived in Yercaud, the lakeside is a good place to spend time.
  • Go boating on the lake, relax on the lawns by the lakeside, enjoy the cool breeze and the beautiful scenery, and try out the tasty street food in the many eateries near the boat-house.
  • TTDC run boat-house opens at  nine in the morning and closes at five- thirty in the evening. It is the most popular place for tourists coming to Yercaud and can be quite crowded in summer.
  • You have a choice of pedal-boats, motor- boats and row-boats.
Boat-house, Yercaud
Boat-house, Yercaud

Boat-house, Yercaud

Safety Rules for boating enthusiasts outside the boat-house in Yercaud
Safety Rules for boating enthusiasts outside the boat-house in Yercaud

Yercaud lake is the only natural lake where you can go boating among all the lakes found in hill-stations in Tamil Nadu.

Dappled sunlight by the lake in Yercaud
Morning sunlight brightens up a placid lake scene in Yercaud

Gently down the lake!

A word of caution- the lake is really deep, so just sit back in your boat and enjoy yourself (let life pass by, literally)!

The row- boats come with the mandatory boatman which is good from the safety perspective. Personally I prefer the row- boat even if there is some waiting for the allotted boat. There is something very therapeutic about the splash of oars striking water, trailing your hand in the cool lake , taking in the panoramic views as the boat moves down the lake and a chat with a friendly boatman!

Late in the evening, when the boat-house has closed and the crowds have left, take a walk on the road by the lake. It’s very peaceful and across the lake, big stars hang low in the black sky over the dark silhouette of a hill. See the stars reflected in the mirror-like water. Feel the cool pure mountain-air, breathe deeply and watch your cares fall away.

The healing beauty of nature is part of the magic that is Yercaud.

RED BERRIES, POINSETTIAS AND more…

20th December,2016

Making B(m)erry!

Nature’s palette this December in Yercaud is light and dark shades of green and vivid splashes of red and orange.

This is a busy time in the coffee plantations in Yercaud. The coffee plants are full of red berries. Plantation workers pick the ripe berries by hand leaving the green unripe ones on the plants.

Ruby red coffee berries
Ruby red coffee berries

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The coffee berries are a beautiful shade of red and shine like rubies amidst the shiny dark green leaves of the coffee plant. Myself, I love coffee and can’t do without my morning cuppa and another in the evening. Filter coffee is always a treat, and Kumbakonam degree kaapi makes one drool. But it all starts here in the hills from the coffee berries that ripen in December. In Salem, we are proud of our very own Narasu’s coffee..who can forget the famous ad?!!

coffee-berries-ripen-on-bushes-in-yercaud

Marigolds and red coffee berries add beauty to the fencing
Marigolds and red coffee berries add beauty to the fencing

Plantation yards are a hive of activity, as the picked berries are weighed, the seeds separated from the berries in machines and then sun-dried. For many days, as the berries ripen slowly on the plants this process continues. From berry to brew is a lengthy process which starts with the picking.

Workers in a plantation,Yercaud
Workers in a plantation,Yercaud
Weighing the berries, a December plantation scene, Yercaud
Weighing the berries, a December plantation scene, Yercaud
Weighing the coffee berries in Yercaud
Weighing the coffee berries in Yercaud

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Coffee seed are sun-dried in heaps on a row

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Christmas Cheer

Elsewhere in the hills, bright red Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) bring Christmas cheer.

poinsettia

Cheery reds of Poinsettias in winter
Cheery reds of Poinsettias in winter
Red Poinsettias brighten up a grey cement wall
Red Poinsettias brighten up a grey cement wall

The little ‘crown of thorns’ plants are not to be outdone. They are full of little red flowers making lovely thorny borders on roadsides and estates.

Crown of thorns flowers
Crown of thorns flowers

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A Merry Christmas to all my readers!

SUNLIT LAVENDER

MARCH 27, 2016

In the hills of Yercaud the Jacaranda trees are in full bloom and present a purple spectacle to steal your hearts.

The beautiful trees are covered with lavender- purple flowers before the leaves unfold. Later the trumpet shaped  blossoms fall to the ground in a mass of color.

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LATE AFTERNOON SUN LIGHTS UP  JACARANDA TREES THAT LINE AN AVENUE

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YERCAUD JOURNAL

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YERCAUD – THE HILL TOWN BY THE LAKE

March 24, 2016

Summer has come early to the southern states in the Indian Sub – continent and it is time to think of cooler climes.

Yercaud Journal is a record of my visits to Yercaud, one of the most beautiful hill stations in Tamil Nadu, India. Flip through its pages and be enthralled by the magic of the hills. Yercaud is called The Jewel of the South and it is one of my favourite and beloved places, one which I never tire of visiting.

 A beautiful little hill town in the hills of the Shevaroy ranges of the Eastern Ghats in South India, Yercaud is in the state of Tamil Nadu, at a height of 4970 feet above mean sea level, (1515 metres).

It can be easily reached from Salem by a hill road that has twenty hair-pin bends and is one of the most scenic roads in Tamil Nadu.

The distance from Salem is 27 kms, roughly an hour’s drive, IF you do not give in to temptation to stop along the way to admire the scenes, the clouds, the mist, the beauty that Mother Nature has chosen to bestow on the many hills you pass on the way up!

The Nearest Railway Station is Salem

The Nearest Airports are at Trichy and Coimbatore.

It is true that the hills are alive!

As the road takes you higher and higher up from the plains of Salem, as the warm air changes to a cool breeze, you will feel your spirits uplifted, you will find yourself leaving all your cares behind, at peace with the world and yet with the thrill that comes of knowing that in the following hours or days you are going to enjoy yourself. By the time you reach Yercaud, you are once more a child –

Welcome To Yercaud and Enjoy Yourself!

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THE HILL ROAD BEGINS HERE, AT 350 m ABOVE MSL
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SPRING COMES TO THE HILLS – BARE TREES AND NEWLY GREEN ONES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE HILL ROAD

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THICKETS OF BAMBOO LINE THE ROAD
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IMAGES OF SPRING – THE ROAD IS STREWN WITH FLOWERS
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A GLIMPSE THROUGH THE FOREST OF THE WINDING GHAT ROAD

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THE GREEN BOARD BY THE ROADSIDE TELLS VISITORS THAT THEY HAVE ARRIVED

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TOWERING TREES MAKE EVERYTHING LOOK SMALL

 

TRIP to M.M. HILLS

M.M. Hills is a favorite holiday destination. It is a long drive, plus a temple visit and some pleasant hours spent in the cool environs of the hills all put together –  a  three-in-one, so to speak!

M.M. Hills is short for Malai Mahadheshwara hills.

On Dec. 29, 2015, we set out for M.M.Hills after lunch and returned home by 8 p.m.the same day.

ROUTE

The route from Salem in Tamil-Nadu was via Omalur, Mecheri, Mettur, Palar to M.M. Hills, roughly a distance of 99 kms.

WHERE IT IS

It is located in Kollegal taluk of Chamrajnagara district in the state of Karnataka. The lush hills are a part of the Eastern ghats in Southern India.

The road from Salem up to Mettur is across level plains. In Mettur  you cross the  river Cauvery and pass by the famous Stanley Reservoir also called as Mettur Dam, a popular tourist destination and picnic spot.From here the road slowly winds upward. Up to Kolathur, you can see the blue expanse of the river Cauvery in the distance as the road runs almost parallel to, albeit some distance away, from the river. It is a beautiful sight to watch.

Fields and villages give way to shrub and forest. There is a check – post after you cross the river Palar, a tributary of the Cauvery. A large arch with the image of Lord Shiva says ‘Welcome to Karnataka’.

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Check post at the Karnataka border

At the check post, you are expected to sign in a book and the make and number of your vehicle and the number of passengers are noted down by the forest department officials. A board by the roadside says, ‘Welcome to Malai Mahadheshwara Widlife Sanctuary’.

M.M. Hills (29)
Bridge across the Palar river-view from the check post

M.M. Hills 2 (2)

From here the road is a hill road through dense forests. The views of hills and valleys are stunning.

The road through the forests
The road through the forests
Homeward bound bullocks
Home – ward bound bullocks

M.M. Hills (1)

M.M. Hills (3)

After 16 kms. from the checkpost we have arrived at our destination. The small village in the hills is called Male Mahadeshwara Betta.It is 3000 feet above sea level amidst thick forests.

SRI MAHADESHWARA SWAMY TEMPLE
SRI MAHADESHWARA SWAMY TEMPLE

It is a very popular pilgrim centre with an ancient Shiva temple, small but powerful. Besides pilgrims, this place attracts nature lovers.

HISTORY

Lord Mahadheshwara is believed to be the incarnation of  Lord Shiva.Folklore says he came here about 600 years ago to perform penance. He went from place to place on a tiger – Huli Vahana – and performed a number of miracles around the betta to save the people. It is believed he is still doing penance in the temple’s garpa gudi in the form of a Shiva linga.

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A procession of utsava murthis on Rishaba vahana and Huli (puli) vahanas

ABOUT THE TEMPLE

SRI MAHADESHWARA TEMPLE
SRI MAHADESHWARA TEMPLE

There are two shrines in the temple. The first one has the idol of Sri Mahadeshwara astride a tiger, the idol of Sri Basaveshwara and Sri Mahadeshwara’s paadam in front. In the other shrine facing it is the self manifest Shiva linga.

Lord Shiva
Lord Shiva
Images on the temple tower tell the story of Sri Mahadeshwara
Images on the temple tower tell the story of Sri Mahadeshwara Swamy

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Rows of shops sell all kinds of trinkets,sweets and other touristy knicknacks.

Rows of shops selling all kind of knicknacks
Rows of shops selling all kind of knicknacks

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IMPORTANT DAYS

On new moon and full moon days  lakhs of pilgrims from the states of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka visit the temple. Diwali and Maha Shiv rathri are important festivals.

TIMINGS

The temple is open from 5.30 a.m. to 8.30 p.m.

Click here for contact details, sevas and accomodation

click here for more details

TamilNadu State Transport Corporation buses and Karnataka State Transport buses ply regularly to the temple.